Offset Hinges
Offset Hinges Pivot Hardware - Use and Selection Guide Pivot Hardware - Use and Selection Guide I get calls every week from clients who want to install pivot hardware to hang their doors (and so...
Offset Hinges
Pivot Hardware - Use and Selection GuidePivot Hardware - Use and Selection Guide I get calls every week from clients who want to install pivot hardware to hang their doors (and sometimes other items like bookcases and even refrigerators). Using pivot hardware can serve several different criteria on a job site such as aesthetics or perhaps because a door is too heavy, tall or wide or maybe just because the owner is looking to do something different or less common than hinges. In my experience there seems to be a general lack of understanding of the use and application of pivot hardware by many home owners, contractors and even architects. Most of the time this is where the knowledge of the hardware professional is indispensable and can help save money, aggravation and even delays on projects. But first we must define pivot hardware (or sometimes called pivot hinges). There are two primary types of pivots used in commercial / residential construction a. Offset Pivots b. Center Hung Pivots The selection of the proper pivot hardware for a given application can best start with asking a simple question. The first question I most commonly ask is whether a door is single acting or double acting. A single acting door is one that swings open in one direction only. Typical single acting doors are classroom doors and bedroom doors. Double acting doors swing open in two directions. Typical double acting doors are seen in restaurants where the door to the kitchen can swing "in and out" so as to better allow people to move into and out of the kitchen with a try full of dinner plates. We can easily eliminate offset or center hung pivot based on the answer to the above question. If a door is single acting, then both offset and center hung are still possible candidates. But if the door is double acting, then we can absolutely eliminate offset pivots. So lets move forward with a better definition of center hung pivots. Center Hung pivots are unique and allow for a special set of design criteria for a doorway to be met. These pivots should be considered when a client wants the hardware to be concealed as much as possible or when a doorway is double acting. Center hung pivots are mortised into the bottom and top of the door generally centered in the door in relationship to the thickness and typically about 3/4" from the pivoting edge of the door to the center of the pivoting axis. This makes the pivot hardware very nearly completely hidden when the door is closed. Also because the axis of pivoting is in the center the door can be accommodated to double act if the application calls for it. A typical double acting door can been seen in a hospital room bathroom. The pivot hardware on these doors is center hung. Typically this bathroom door swing in but in the event of an accident (such as a patient collapsing) the nurse can, by disengaging a special strike plate, swing the door out into the room to allow access. Center hung pivot hardware is available for doors less than 100 lbs. as heavy as up to 1,000 lbs., range from just over $100.00 to well over $1,000.00 dollars, are available is most sprayed and architectural plated finishes and made by many manufacturers such as Rixson, ABH, Ives and Dorma. The following are a few considerations when specifying or using center hung pivots. a. Center Hung pivots are not for use of fire rated doors b. May violate the warranty of the door manufacturer c. Typically require a radius edge to one or both stiles of the door. d. Can be used on single or double acting doors but the way a door is machined depends on this. Now moving onto offset pivots and back to our first question weather or not a door is single or double acting. Again if it is double acting then offset pivots are not an option. But if the door is single acting the then offset pivots are required. Offset pivots can be specified for a number of reasons but the most common are weight of the door and the design criteria set forth by the owner. Offset pivots have a much higher weight capacity than hinges and can be considered the best possible means of hanging a door. Because the weight of the door is born exclusively on the bottom arm of the pivot (which is directly connected to the pivot spindle) the weight of the door itself is carried by the floor (and ultimately the remainder of the building). Offset pivots are visible at the top and bottom of the door and are generally only slightly more difficult to machine in doors than center hung pivots. Offset pivots are named such because the vertical pivoting axis is "offset" from the face of the door. There are two common offsets, 3/4" and 1 1/2". 3/4" is by far the most common. This means the distance from the face of the door to the pivoting axis is 3/4". 1 1/2" offset is also not uncommon but are generally only used when the the doorway requires a greater offset such as thicker than standard casing or when a door is set deeper into a jamb than normal. Typical applications for offset pivots are wardrobe closets or lead lined doors in hospitals and clinics. And like its cousin center hung pivots, offset pivot hardware made made for doors as light as less than 100 lbs. as heavy as up to 1,500 lbs., range from just under $200.00 to well over $1,000.00 dollars, are available is most sprayed and architectural plated finishes and made by many manufacturers such as Rixson, ABH, Ives and Dorma. The following are a few considerations when specifying or using offset pivots. a. Offset pivots can be used on fire rated doors b. Intermediate pivots can be specified so as to not violate the warranty of the door manufacturer c. Do not require a radius edge to either stile of the door. d. Can be costly depending on the size and weight of the door they are installed onto. I enjoy talking about pivots, their general and less common uses and helping people determine the right pivot for their application. I have been working in the commercial construction materials business for 20 - years with a family heritage dating to the 1930's distributing quality building materials to the construction industry. As an owner for the last 15 - years I have gained an expert working knowledge of commercial doors and architectural hardware with a strong emphasis on client relations both face to face and at www.absupply.net |
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Exterior Shutter Installation - Install Wood and Vinyl Shutters
There are two methods of exterior shutter installation for your home. Following our exterior shutter installation tips will enable you to install each way. There are two popular methods for exterior shutter installation: to install wood shutters shutters on hinges and install vinyl shutters directly to the house. Both can be quickly learned. Exterior shutter installation on hinges is for functional shutters that need to open or close or just have the look that they can. You install vinyl shutters directly to the house, a method sometimes called "direct set."
Before we begin, it's also a good idea to point out that depending on the surface you're installing exterior shutters on, siding or brick, there are a few differences in the details.
Ok, let's begin with direct set installation. Direct set installation of exterior shutters is used to install vinyl shutters and sometimes to install wood shutters. There are no hinges or other hardware to mount the exterior shutters. The only hardware needed are 2 - 3 inch long screws and drywall anchors for the brick and rock installation. For installing vinyl shutters there will normally be six holes and six accompanying plugs which will cover the screw heads. Step one is to hold the vinyl shutter up to the window in the desired location and to trace through the holes with a pencil transferring the mark to the house itself. Next, you want to predrill a hole to receive the screws. If you are on siding, a 1/8" hole should do. Simply drill into the siding with this bit at each location. If you are installing shutters on brick, you will want to predrill with a 1/4" bit and slip a plastic drywall anchor into the brick. This will give the screw something to grab.
Once you've predrilled the holes, it's as simple as holding the exterior shutters back up to the window to install the exterior shutters with 2 - 3 inch screws. It's a good idea to place a plug over the screws to conceal them. To install wood shutters, sometimes you have to make your own install holes. These holes can be predrilled with a countersink bit in each corner and near the middle of the outside railing. You can also make your own plugs with a plug cutting bit that matches the countersink bit diameter. The nice thing about wood plugs is that they can be made to flush out with the shutter and are concealed much better than the standard vinyl plugs.
If instead you need to install functional shutters atop hinges then the process differs slightly. You usually install wood shutters and even PVC shutters with this method. Exterior shutter installation on two hinges which sit atop "pintles" screwed into the window frame. A shutter pintle is the male part of the hinge that connects the hinge to the house, offsets the shutter from the trim, and provides a pivot point for the hinges to rotate. Pintles come in three sizes: siding, brick, and rock. Siding generally sticks out 1 1/8" from the home. Brick sticks out 2 1/4" from the home and rock sticks out 4 1/16 inches from the home. The wrong pintle will not allow the shutters to offset the right distance and may keep the shutters from laying flush on the house.
Usually two hinges are installed on a shutter, however, for longer shutters or PVC shutters 3 - 4 hinges are sometimes used to distribute the weight or to keep the shutter more thermally ridgid. Exterior shutter hinges should be attached first and located roughly six inches from the top and bottom of the shutter.
The location of the pintles will determine where the shutter sits. If installed too low or too high, the shutter will not mirror the windows and look like a custom fit. Take the distance from the bottom edge of the shutter to the bottom part of the pintle that meets the hinge. This distance will determine the placement of the pintle. It's a good idea to make a jig for this distance. You can cut a scrap piece of wood to this length to easily repeat this measurement without using a tape measure on site. We'll call this a pintle jig, or "pin jig" for short.
Place the pin jig on the window sill over the window trim and mark the top of the jig. Next, place the pintle over the trim so that the bottom of the pintle where the hinge rests is aligned with your mark. This is where the pintle needs to be screwed into the trim so that the shutter mirrors the window. Only install the bottom pintle at this time. Afterwards, lift the shutter up and place it on the pintle.
Have another pintle and a drill on hand so that you're ready for the next step. Do this by having the bottom hinge slip over the pintle. Now, you will install the second pintle by sliding it into place in the second hinge and on the window trim. Screw the second pintle in and you now know how to install exterior shutters on hinges. Your shutters will be functional and open and close.
An S-Shaped piece of hardware called a shutter dog is used to keep the shutter closed in the wind. It can be installed in the bottom opposite corner directly to the home as well. Use lag anchors instead of dry wall anchors to hold them for brick or rock. For siding, simply predrill a 1/4" hole and tighten the shutter dog in place. The shutterdog can be rotated to allow the shutter to open and close.
Lastly, you can add a no rot window flower box under the window for an added effect. This is a good way to draw attention to your newly added shutters and highlight your windows.
About the Author
Matthew Buquoi is the owner of Flower Window Boxes, a manufacturer of PVC window boxes that sells affordable, no rot custom window boxes. They are also a supplier of functional, no rot PVC Shutters.





































