I have a 88 Evinrude xp150 engine but no fire?

I have a 88 Evinrude xp150 on my bass boat. The power packs, stator and the coils are all good but I do not have any fire to any of the six plugs? Any suggestions?

Unless by "power packs, stator and coils are all good", you mean you measured the peak AC output of the powerpack & stator at cranking speed with a DVA meter, and got at least 150V, and measured coil resistance and found it within spec, then you haven't ruled out a fault in any of those components. Or the timer base, either.

But there's a couple easy tests you can do before going to all that trouble.

Make sure your battery is fully charged -- unless you're cranking speed is at least 250 RPM, no spark.

First, reattach the emergency lanyard and try again. (LOL)

Seriously, you need to isolate the kill circuit by disconnecting the black/yellow wire at the powerpacks, and test for spark again. Best to have all the plug wires off for this one (be sure to ground 'em to the engine block) -- if it starts like this, the only way to shut it off is to use the primer/enrichener (choke) to flood it.

Alternatively, you could just disconnect the big red main wiring harness plug, and turn the engine over by jumping the solenoid. If you do that, you won't be able to use the electric choke, you'd have to shut it off manually. And you won't have ruled out a short circuit in the wiring from packs to plug.

The kill circuit works by short-circuiting the powerpacks when the black/yellow is connected to ground, shutting off spark, so if you get spark with it disconnected, it means there's an accidental contact between the black/yellow and ground somewhere in the circuit. Could be along the powerhead, where insulation might get burned or chafed, could be at any connector along the way, could be the emergency cut-off switch, or the keyswitch.

With the keyswitch is in the "off" position, the two "M" terminals should test positive for continuity, otherwise they should test negative.

I give ya about a 80 to 90% probability that your problem is somewhere along that kill wire.

If it still don't spark with the black/yellow disconnected, then disconnect the rectifier/regulator and test again -- if a rectifier diode fails "open", it can short out the ignition.

And look around on the engine under the flywheel for a sticky substance that might be melted epoxy -- if it's ever overheated, flywheel magnets can start to loosen, if the wrong one shifts just a tiny bit it screws the ignition up.